Everyday LifeStandby draw included

Electricity Cost Calculator

Wattage tells you how fast a device draws power; the bill depends on how long it runs and what your utility charges. This turns the label on the back of the appliance into a monthly figure.

The Appliance and Your Tariff

Wattage is on the rating plate or in the manual.

W
h/day
days
units
drawn during the remaining hours
W
US residential average
¢/kWh
COST PER MONTH
$19.81/month
Energy per month108.0 kWh
Cost per year$237.69
Cost per day$0.66 on a day you use it
Cost per hour of use$0.22 per hour running
Standby cost per yearno standby draw entered
Share of an average home12.0% of an average US home (899 kWh)
At the US average rate$19.81/month at 18.34¢
1,200 W running 3.00 hours a day uses 3.60 kWh each day, 108.0 kWh a month once 30 days of use are counted, and that costs $19.81 at 18.34¢ per kWh. Over a year it is $237.69. The arithmetic is only ever watts × hours ÷ 1,000 × your rate; everything above is that same line arranged by day, month and year. Two cautions on the inputs. The rating plate is a maximum, not an average: anything with a thermostat — fridges, heaters, air conditioners — cycles on and off, so enter the hours it actually runs rather than the hours it is switched on, or use the annual kWh figure from the energy label. And your tariff is probably not one number: tiered and time-of-use plans charge different rates by volume or hour, and there is a fixed customer charge on top. For your real effective rate, divide the total of your last bill by the kilowatt-hours it covered. The default of 18.34¢ is the US residential average published by the Energy Information Administration.

Watts, kilowatt-hours and the bill

A watt is a rate of energy use. Run 1,000 watts for one hour and you have used one kilowatt-hour, which is the unit your utility bills in. So the whole calculation is watts, times hours, divided by 1,000, times your rate — everything else on this page is that same arithmetic arranged by day, month and year.

The rating plate is a maximum, not an average

Most appliances cycle. A refrigerator rated at 150 W does not draw 150 W continuously; its compressor runs perhaps a third of the time, so its real consumption is closer to a third of the nameplate figure. The same applies to anything with a thermostat — heaters, ovens, air conditioners, kettles. For those, either enter the effective running hours rather than the hours it is switched on, or use the annual kWh figure from the energy label if one is available.

Standby is small per device and large per house

Devices that are never truly off — set-top boxes, games consoles in rest mode, chargers, anything with a remote control — draw a few watts continuously. A single 5 W standby load costs little on its own, but a typical household has dozens, and unlike the appliance itself they draw around the clock. The standby line above prices that for one device across the hours it is not in use.

Your rate is probably not one number

The figure above defaults to the US residential average published by the Energy Information Administration, but a bill rarely reduces to a single rate. Many tariffs are tiered, charging more per kilowatt-hour above a monthly threshold, and time-of-use plans charge several times more during peak hours than overnight. There is also a fixed customer charge that does not change with consumption. To get your own effective rate, divide the total on your last bill by the kilowatt-hours it covered — that includes the fixed charge and the taxes, which is what you actually pay.

Where the money usually is

Heating, cooling and water heating dominate most bills, and anything that produces heat as its purpose — dryers, ovens, space heaters, kettles — draws far more than electronics. A 1,500 W space heater run for eight hours costs more per day than a laptop does in a month. Lighting has largely left the list since LEDs, which is worth remembering before spending an evening unplugging phone chargers: the arithmetic above will tell you which changes are worth making and which are a rounding error.

Frequently Asked Questions

How do I work out what an appliance costs to run?
Multiply its wattage by the hours it runs, divide by 1,000 to get kilowatt-hours, and multiply by your rate per kWh. The page does that for a day, a month and a year.
Where do I find the wattage?
On the rating plate, usually on the back or underneath, or in the manual. If only amps and volts are given, multiply them together to get watts.
What rate should I use?
Divide the total of your last bill by the kilowatt-hours it covered. That captures the fixed charge and taxes, which a headline rate does not. The default is the US residential average published by the EIA.
Does standby power really matter?
Per device it is small, but standby loads run continuously and a house has dozens of them. The line above prices one device; multiply by the number in your home.
Where these numbers come from

Sources

Official publications only. Links open the original document in a new tab.